York MC weekend away (15 - 17 January 2016)
Friday
Maria and Mike set off very early on Friday morning to get to Arrochar in time for a climb in on The Cobbler. Given the snow conditions, the plan was to do the traverse of the south and central peaks. Deep powder, accompanied by sleet and clag, made the walk-in time-consuming, but the planned climb made up for the frustration flailing through the snow on the way there. The sun eventually came out while they were ascending the SE ridge of the south peak, a magnificent grade II/III classic.
Their plan was to climb The Arête to the summit of the central peak, but their rope jammed while abseiling from the summit of the south peak. They managed to free it eventually, but didn't have enough time left to do the extra pitches of climbing. Instead they had an enjoyable walk to the summit of the central peak, avoiding the climbing on the Arete, which offered the chance to get some fantastic views before descending.
Saturday
Andrew, Marjan & Steve
Saturday certainly called for a circumspect choice of mountainside in view of the snowfall during the preceding week. Andrew and Steve Murray chose Buachaille Etive Beag, and with Marjan, found the snow down to the roadside at the top of Glen Coe. (250 metres)
As expected, the trodden route to the bealach at 750 metres was not overly deep in snow for moderate progress. The weather however was very disappointing after a brilliant forecast: it was dull, grey, misty, and with intermittent light snowfall. Onwards and upwards with rather more difficulty underfoot, to the first Munro - Stob Coire Raineach - which overlooks the glen. Or might overlook it, if anything could be seen!
In fact very little could be seen. And in fact, with no wind, and snow gently drifting down, there seemed to be a prospect of imminent white-out. Back down past memorised boulder shapes. Footsteps were filling in completely within 10 minutes. At the bealach, the light improved a bit, so that the next 150 metres up to Point 902 could at times be made out. More plunging effort in deep powder, especially as we approached - or rather, seemed not to approach - the Point. Then came the most difficult bit:- explaining to Marjan that we were not yet at the summit, since the Munro, Stob Dubh, lies just short of another kilometre away, along a narrow and steepening ridge. All systems now had to be turned up to "full" here: with limited visibility, the wind picking up, cornices forming, and the edges blurred by airborne snow transportation. It was difficult at times to make out where the cornice started and also where it -- er.. stopped.
Finally with due care and attention the team got back off the ridge and relaxed a bit as the Lairig Eilde appeared below. In the interests of Responsible Mountaineering, a line down the mountainside was taken before reaching the bealach, in an effort to teach Marjan the faintest possible idea of self-arrest: and when the deep snow laughed at these efforts, further progress by glissade was attempted. The penalty for this excursion was a traverse back to the "path" in deep powder, up to waist deep in some places. After such entertainment, the mountain staged a finale of increasing snowfall, and lowering cloud completely obscuring all higher levels, to give the feeling that the 6.5 hour day was ending just at the right time!
Maria and Mike planned an easy ski tour up Beinn Heasgairnich, with the weather forecast promising good visibility. However, sadly it wasn’t to be. Just as the pair left the hydro road, it started snowing heavily and whiteout conditions set in for the day. Skiing in a whiteout turned out to be somewhat tricky (particularly for Maria who is still a relative beginner when it comes to sliding down hills on planks). Not being able to see the angle of the slope or any obstacles coming up made it difficult to stay upright, and there were a few crashes. The day’s objective was quickly revised and the pair decided to do a shorter route, ascending and descending Creag nam Bodach.
Matt and Dave originally planned to climb Stairway to Heaven on Beinn an Dothaidh. However, difficult conditions on both the walk-in and the buttress led to a decision to revert to plan B – a simple scramble to the summit.
After a stay at Corryhully Bothy on Friday night, Tenko, Ben and Guy set off to attempt the Corryhully horseshoe. However, the whiteout conditions and deep powder which had caused problems for others meant that they abandoned the attempt at around 650m.
Sunday
After seeing a weather forecast that indicated conditions were likely to be better in the east, Andrew, Marjan, Steve, Mike and Maria headed to Mount Blair, a small hill just south of Glen Shee. The hill was a short but enjoyable walk, and offered plenty of opportunity for speculation as to the cause of the mysterious shapes in the heather on its flanks. (A Scottish version of crop circles, perhaps??). After the leg stretch, a visit to a tea shop for lunch concluded the day’s activities.
Matt and Dave headed south for a circuit of Blencathra, including Sharp Edge, where they were met with wild weather and plenty of spindrift.
