Wasdale May 2023

The Club trip to Wasdale took place over the weekend of Friday the 23^rd to Sunday the 25^th of May.  As a bonus of membership in another club Oli B very kindly exercised his reciprocal rights to use the Brackenclose Hut, which belongs to the FRCC, at the north end of Wast Water.  Oli organised the trip, sorted out dinner for Saturday and booked the hut where ten members of the Club stayed in relative luxury plus another two members self-accommodating nearby.

The weekend started early for those that were able to escape and enjoy the fantastic weather which was expected to last for a good few days.  Are there no limits to Oli’s influence?  The resident Goth twins of the Club, Dave Ca and Matthew managed a Thursday climb at Troutdale Pinnacle (S) followed by a night out in the van and dinner with beers, immersed in a stunning sunset, high in Honister Pass.  Romantic, it was, until the curry kicked in.

On Friday morning the Goth twins, Dave M, Oli B, Oli T, Dan S and Sam all met at Brackenclose before deciding on the achievable options and heading up to the crags.  Dave Ca and Matthew opted for Moss Ghyll Grooves (MVS) on Skafell.  This was an adventurous, higher grade climb with a steep walk in and demanding descent, especially considering Matthew’s recent knee upgrade and one good climb already in the bag.  Nonetheless the desired result was achieved, although the walk-out was rather stressful on the undercarriage so Dave gallantly shouldered all the gear while Matthew gently eased his way down the path.

The remaining five headed up to the Napes on Great Gable for an introduction to lower grade multi-pitch routes.  Dave M with Dan S and Oli T went for Arrowhead Ridge (VD) and Sam with Oli B the Eagle’s Nest Ordinary Route (D).  It was a pleasant surprise to have the place almost to ourselves in such good weather conditions.  Both teams had successful and enjoyable ascents.  Sam having a go at leading and Dan with Oli T figuring out what all this ‘twin rope’ thing was about while enjoying fantastic views many metres up on a narrow ridge with sheer drops to left, right and in front.  Sam and Oli B finished quite quickly and made a reconnaissance of Great Gable before descending towards Sty Head Tarn and back to the Wasdale Inn.  Dave M, Oli T and Dan S took longer but had time for a few minutes of gold prospecting before traversing east to Sty Head Pass and back to the pub to meet the other team.  Food was still being served after 8:30 so all enjoyed a meal and a couple of drinks before walking back to Brackenclose.

More Club members from York were arriving at the hut as the climbing groups returned.  There were a few other climbers in the hut but it was not busy and all had a pleasant and most sociable evening before turning in.

In the morning Emma drove across from Harrogate in the glorious weather and arrived before 7:30, at least 30 minutes earlier than expected.  A feat never known before.  During breakfast a spontaneous, whole team effort was launched in an industrial scale of vegetable chopping and Oli B engaged in the the alchemy of curry sauce mixing.  Dave Ca took the helm loading two vat sized slow cookers with veggie curry which would be ready for a team feast in the evening.  After breakfast and fine-tuning of plans everyone was set for the day with Pikes Crag on Skafell being the focus of our attention.  Matthew was still feeling the effects of the previous days walk-out so elected to stay near the hut and promised to stir the curry.  Although, even on this easy, rest day he managed to walk more than seven miles.

Rose with Tracey and Mike were the first of our group to reach Grooved Arete (VD) but had to wait for another climbing team ahead on the same route.  Tracey led and redescribed the route in her own style, perhaps adding a grade or two without intention.

Oli B with Oli T, to keep the communication calls simple, headed across to Wall and Crack Climb (VD+) which they achieved without any drama.  Jenny and Wes opted for Juniper Buttress (MS+) and enjoyed their first climb of the weekend.  Dave M with Dan S decided to head for Crenation Ridge (D).  The route is not frequently climbed, therefore not polished and vaguely follows the ridge in a series of steps that you can make as hard or as simple as you like.  The start point chosen may not have been correct, however, it was a very enjoyable climb with route options taken to give a reasonable test of technique and strength as well as to enjoy the ambience.

Dave Ca, Sam and Emma initially aimed for Grooved Arete but decided not to wait and changed plan to climb Crenation Ridge after Dave M and Dan.  The trio battled with route finding and took time to make good progress.  Sam had blisters on both feet after the previous day, Emma was in shell shock after being early before breakfast and Dave was at a loss without his Goth twin.  Despite the emotional and physical trauma, the route was almost completed and before starting the final pitch the three made a single abseil to take them down to the decent path.

Oli B and Oli T, Dave M and Dan all met at the top of Pikes Crag after completing their climbs.  It was a perfect opportunity for Oli T to revise abseiling after many years and for Dan to have a go for his very first time.  There is a pre-rigged abseil point at the back of the crag and We had time to take a thorough look at the process and tick off another big achievement in Dan’s expanding mountaineering skills portfolio.  The day was not yet complete as the four made their way through the crowds to Skafell Pike summit before descending back to Brackenclose.

The Mountain Rescue teams and rescue helicopter had been kept busy on Skafell Pike tourist path throughout the day, however, our climbing parties all arrived safely at the hut as the evening progressed.  Beers were consumed, the shower facilities tested and clean tee shirts were donned in anticipation of the main curry event.  At the allotted time, whatever it was, we all sat down together and enjoyed a fantastic meal.  Naan bread and rice to accompany the two flavours of veggie curry.  Oli T’s wine to accompany the food too, hic.  The evening continued well after the food was gone but the washing up was all done and dishes put away long before disappearing off to bed.  It was heartening to see that everyone had such respect for the hut and for the other climbers who were staying there.

The next morning was time to clear out of the hut.  Perfect weather once more but not everyone was intending to climb.  Dave M and Sam stayed behind after everyone had left to make a final clean sweep of the hut before driving back to York.  Matthew and Dave Ca were tiring after several big days out and decided that another climb would likely be a step too far so headed for home.  The rest of the group headed for Castle Rock of Triermain.

Jenny and Wes climbed Direct Route (VS), Emma and Rose went for a multi-pitch session on Yew Tree Climb (VD),Tracey and Oli T did a combination of Wall Climb and Slab Climb (both HS) twice and Oli B joined them for the second time around after he’d finished climbing with Dan.

Everyone had a great weekend.  We all manged to climb safely, pushing physical limits, trying new things and making the most out of the environment and the company.  It was a pleasure to see more experienced climbers sharing knowledge and giving time to help those who are relatively new to outdoor and multi-pitch climbing.  The hut was in a brilliant location and very comfortable, really well equipped for anything and we are grateful to Oli for arranging our stay as well as the curry, the enthusiasm, the knowledge and sharing it, the curry, the weather and the curry.  Maybe again next year?

Thanks everyone!

Dave M