Andrew

The BMC statement today raises many questions about practicalities and hygiene. It is vague and very short on detail. I choose not to use Facebook so I may not see the broadcast. If you are ‘present” some questions to which answers might be welcome are below. Especially Question No 7.

ANDREW

(1) Is it recommended that climbers not in the same household travel separately (to maintain social distance ?) 2 metres distance is recommended on public transport but not possible in one car.

(2) If so, what is the likelyt impact at crags located on small country lanes with limited parking — ie assuming that there are twice or three times as many cars ? {That’s most of our crags of course ]. What does the BMC recommend as to relations with local residents ? Will climbers suffer reputational damage by visiting crags against the wishes of locals ?

(3) If I lead a climb, what do I now do when I reach the top ? Given that my second has handled all the rope, surely the BMC does not recommend that I then haul the rope in ?? That would be tatamount to shaking hands repeatedly with my second. ? So how can a lead climber hygenically make a belay or bring up a second ?

(4) When bringing up a second — say top roping, does the BMC recommend a stance 3 metres back from the crag edge, so as to maintain 2 metres minimum as the second tops out ? Are any problems anticipated with not being able to see or possibly hear the second ?
(5) Is it supposed that at each gear placement, the second will weight the rope and apply disinfectant before removing the gear ?

(6) On many popular single pitch routes, a different climber may have ascended 5 minutes previously using all the same handholds. What is the detailed hygiene advice about handling rock holds immediately after a potentially infected person ?

(7) Does the BMC expect that the convoluted operations which seem necessary to maintain hygiene will be adopted and maintained by all climbers ?

A couple of further points.
(i) You are only supposed to meet ONE other person not in your household. So walking group sizes will be only two maybe three people as a rule.
(ii) Residents in popular locations will not welcome numerous visitors and social distancing will be more difficult.
So the pointer is towards very low profile walking in carefully chosen places.

Interesting article highlighted by Nick with thoughts for the future. It remains to be seen whether Government instructions will eventually go along such lines. All we have at the moment is what the Govt has announced today.

Andrew

The latest Government instructions today (11 May) will take time to fully digest. Perhaps there will be further advice from the BMC soon.

A couple of points have been made clear on the BBC TV this afternoon.

WALKING. In Scotland and Wales separate legislation applies and in those countries the legal requirement remains to “stay home”.
In England a person is now allowed to drive any distance in order to take exercise. However (a) social distance to be maintained and (b) no overnight trips. (Also, of course, it is probably wise to assume that MR services may still not be functional.). Possibly this points the way towards some hillwalking day walks; albeit people from separate households presumably ought to travel in separate cars.

ROCK CLIMBING. I have not heard anything specific (pending anything from the BMC). However, to my mind, I cannot see how it is possible to climb without in due course handling the rope your partner has just run through her hands; and on popular crags someone else will handle all the holds. So IMO there are more issues of social distance for climbers and it will be a case of not letting enthuiasm outrun social responsibility.

More to come, no doubt

ANDREW