Some thoughts on winter kit

Whilst chatting to a few people this week, there was discussion about the winter weekend and what kit to take. Somebody asked if I could put up a list of what I carry based on my experience so here are the thoughts (for what they’re worth). There as much a basis for discussion as anything else (albeit I’ll be pretty adamant about some items!) and hopefully will help a few club members.

As follows:

Personal kit

1. Wicking baselayer
2. Wicking underwear
3. Socks – I use woollen knee-length ones
4. Woollen or fleece hat – with a packed spare
5. Gloves – with packed spare pairs
6. Buff
7. Warm, windproof trousers – I use softshells; I know others who wear long johns under waterproof trousers
8. Gaiters
9. Softshell jacket – if you prefer them
10. Midlayer(s)
11. Vest/gilet – if you like them and ideal for short stops
12. Belay jacket – packed for long stops or emergencies
13. Rigid-soled boots – capable of taking crampons – ideally at least B2 for Scotland
14. Crampons – ideally at least C2 for Scotland
15. Waterproof, hooded jacket – this needs to be pretty robust
16. Waterproof trousers – once again, pretty robust
17. Rucksack – I use a 45L for days out
18. Helmet – if needed – mountaineers may want them for safety when practising ice axe skills
19. Ice axe – A mountaineering axe rather than a climbing axe for mountaineering
20. Map – waterproofed in some way
21. Compass – I carry a spare one as well
22. Watch – I wear mine on my rucksack strap – it has an altimeter and the buttons can be used when I’m wearing gloves. It does not need to be a massively expensive one!
23. Headtorch – with spare batteries; I also carry a lightweight headtorch
24. Whistle
25. Mobile phone – with spare battery
26. Survival bag – I carry a blizzard bag + a spare foil bag. A piece of old sleeping mat can be useful to sit on as well.
27. Small flask – I use a 500ml one with a hot energy drink in it
28. Food – I carry food I can eat on the move or at short stops (eg nav breaks, photo moments) as long stops just get everyone cold
29. Drink – in addition to my flask, I carry a 1L flexible water bottle with another energy drink in it. It’s the first thing to be drunk and is carried upside down so any ice that forms doesn’t block the nozzle
30. Spare high energy foods
31. Sun cream Just for your face
32. Lip salve
33. Sunglasses
34. Goggles
35. Walking poles – I have some duct tape wrapped round mine
36. Transceiver – they’re expensive, you need to practise with them and they’re lifesavers
37. Shovel
38. Probe

Group

39. GPS Ideally one in the group
40. Confidence rope
41. 240mm sling
42. HMS karabiner
43. First aid kit
44. Group shelter – big enough for the group (!)
45. Locator beacon/SPOT tracker – very comforting to have one of these
46. Multi tool
47. Toilet roll – with freezer bags

I know that this looks a lot but if you spend time in the mountains anyway, you’ve probably got most of this kit anyway. You can often hire some of it and it’s worth checking before a trip.

Winter kit is designed to be pretty robust – my boots (I use Scarpa Mantas lasted eight years before they needed resoling), my first winter Goretex jacket (I use an ME Lhotse) lasted six years, I’m still using the same woollen hat (it’s a Brynje one) that I’ve been using for years etc etc. It can be pricey but, if you look after it, it will last.

eBay and other on-line markets and shopping the sales will often pay dividends (much of my gear came from eBay); the post-Christmas kit harvest on eBay is well worth tracking!
Regarding which midlayer, waterproof, softshell, belay jacket etc to get is always a matter of debate. I’m a massive fan of Paramo and will happily be in my jacket and salopettes all day (which reduces the amount of kit that I’m going to carry) but am also happy to go out in softshell with Goretex packed or spend the whole day in Goretex. It depends on what I’m doing, who I’m with, where I am and what the conditions are.

Some of this kit takes some training and practice to use – crampons, ice axes, probes, transceivers, shovels etc – and there are simple skills which are worth learning – ice axe arrest, cutting/kicking steps and platforms, movement on steep ground etc (those in the Cairngorms last year may remember the groups we had to help). Additionally, assessing the avalanche risk and avalanche rescue drills are also useful to know.

Finally, insurance is worth it. I take it out on every trip and the BMC’s policies are pretty cheap.

This all sounds a lot but there’s a lot of experience in the club and a lot of opportunities out there. Winter mountaineering is, as many of us have found, a different world and highly addictive.

Hope this helps.