Jewels Beyond Ullapool

 

JEWELS BEYOND ULLAPOOL

Lo !  said the shadowy figure, KNOW that there yet lie, within Scotia's realm, mountains of great beauty, towering over a plain studded with blue lochans,  with awesome cliffs,  rocky pinnacled ridges, full of grace and character. And yet unvisited by them of the 914.6

Give me this quest, I said to the figure, that I may tread upon such mountains.

And so it was, that I sought out The Kendrick, from his dwelling-place, and together we yede into the far north-west, even beyond the Pool of Ull.

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Stac Polliadh (612 metres) was a short day after a morning's drive from Inverness. A quick ascent of an hour and 20 minutes to the extremely pinnacled ridge. The sun shone brightly, lochans below glinted, and we looked across a totally gorgeous landscape towards Cul Mor, Suilven, Canisp. 

Pick a path westwards, winding around rock buttresses, finally working up to the top of the ridge.

 

The "bad step" is a 5 metre lump of rock on the ridge. Two or three moves to climb up, but a worry about reversing it. However on the south side, is a chimney which would be awkward to climb, but gives an easy slither out of its lower end.

 

 

An easy ramble then leads to the final summit.

North and south shone the lovely shapes of hills in Inverpolly and Coigach. West glittered the peninsula, the sea, the Outer Hebrides on the horizon.

 

To round off a short hill day, we also had a look at Corrieshalloch Falls. Highly recommended...... an amazing gorge, right next to the main road. I shall be driving a bit slower on that stretch now !!

 

With afternoon rain in the forecast, we fancied a roof in Ullapool. The only available one was at the Ceilidh Place, a hotel/bar with an out-of-date building called the Clubhouse across the road, used as a bunkhouse. It's a tatty place, and a similar sin to the bunkhouse at Bridge of Orchy  Hotel.........they charged a reasonably expensive ￡15 for bunks in a tiny room, but there is no kitchen at all to cook in, and no sitting room.  Fortunately the rain was late coming, so we found our way into their furniture store, and cooked on our camping stoves al fresco. Ullapool's a pretty picture as always, but they know how to charge a lot for beer too !!

 

Sadly the late rain was late hanging around on Sunday, blotting out the whole day. We drove north to see geological stuff at Knockan Crag, and on to Elphin, where tea and scones were sold by a couple all the way from.........Holmfirth, West Yorkshire. 

"Quiet around here ? " I said. 

"Aye, we all come here cos we're all anti-social" was his considered reply.

Finally as the weather let up, it was time to go camping. Off we went westwards past Loch Lurgainn, past the Ard of Coigach, to briefly explore the beaches at Achnahaird before crossing the low hill to Altandhu.  the descent road has a superb viewpoint over the Summer Isles,  all lying where they were thrown.

 

Camping on the beach at Achiltibuie, and just a pleasant mile's walk from the Hotel.

Meal wine beer beer wine.

 

Its also a place rich in ancient Gaelic Customs............such as hanging the tyre on the lamp post.

Having got right round the peninsula to this spot, we were well placed to do Ben Mor Coigach from the southwest next morning. A traverse across moorland at 400 metres led to the rocky nose of Garbh Choireachan, as the ground got exceedingly steep. A Grade One type gulley wound up into the rocks. Looking like it would "go", we clambered upwards, alert for any irreversible move, and finally emerged on a delightful, narrow rock ridge which is about 1 kilometre long, before rising again on grassland to the Summit. 

 

Beyond, a rocky bealach, a climb to Sgurr an Fhidleir, stunning views across to Stac Pollaidh, and two more miles of ridge to Cairn Conmheall overlooking the sea before dropping back to our car. An excellent varied day, and full of interest.

 

We reckoned we'd made a shrewd move back in Ullapool, by just squeezing into the Youth Hostel, plenty of comfy space and good cooking. But we didn't reckon on a fellow guest pulling Zeds for England !!!. The door shook, windows rattled.

So Tuesday was a rather late start. Straight up Cul Mor........a good path (with one boulder field) leads alll the way to the summit. More great views of Suilven, Canisp, and Quinaig beyond, in a mixture of sunshine and mist. 

It started to pour down just after we got back to the car. 

We made tracks south to outrun the rain, and ended up on the Corbett of Little Wyvis for our afternoon constitutional. Dwarfed by its Munro brother, the Little one made a change, however, with a good perspective down Glen Carron. 

And as the showers finally caught us again, we reached the car. A grand collection of Jewels from Ullapool:- but more remain. Mighty Suilven awaits.

ANDREW