Gales and Gullies in Glen Clova
Thursday night was perfect preparation for a weekend's climbing - several pints in the Fox, followed by whisky, mince pies and door frame climbing competitions in the early hours at John's flat... By Friday afternoon the hangovers were just starting to loosen their grip as Matt, Frank, Maria and I headed north to Glen Clova.
Arriving at the bunkhouse at 10:30ish we sampled the local ale in the Glen Clova hotel bar while making plans for Saturday. The beer wasn't great (unfortunately the end of a barrel that had been sat around for too long) but a decision was made - a grade I gully in Corrie Fee followed by Mayar and Driesh, which would be the first & second Munros on Frank's second round, and take Matt to within 113 of compleation.
Saturday morning dawned clear and cold, and we plodded up the icy forest track to find some amazing views into Corrie Fee as we left the woods.
We selected D Gully, donned crampons and set off uphill. Snow conditions were good and we shared the route with a couple of mountain hares who made it all look easy as they ran up and down the gully.
On reaching the top we were hit by ferocious winds that made it hard to stand up, but fuelled by jelly babies and hot drinks from our flasks we found our way onto Mayar without being blown away.
We didn't linger long on the summit before heading East towards Driesh. The constant spindrift being blown into our faces gave us the authentic Scottish winter experience, and I longed for my ski goggles which I'd helpfully left back at home in York.
The summit of Driesh was another very brief stop before we retraced our steps to the col and took the path down the Shank of Drumfollow.
It was nice to get out of the wind as we reached Glendoll forest, and we entertained each other by slipping and sliding our way down the icy forest track back to the car. That evening we retired to the Glen Clova hotel for a few fine ales (fresh barrel this time!) and some generous portions of very tasty dinner. I recommend the venison casserole...
The plan for Sunday was for a slightly shorter day, climbing something a bit harder in Corrie Fee and then heading down so we could get back to York at a decent time. Unfortunately Matt's snoring left Frank less than keen on the idea, so he volunteered to stay down in the Glen and catch up on sleep while the 3 of us went off to climb B Gully.
We roped up and moved together up the first 100m or so, before reaching a steeper bit of climbing above which I was able to get a good belay set up and bring the others up.
I was nominated to lead the ice pitch above, which looked a fair bit steeper than your average grade II, but good fun. I was glad when I got a good ice screw in 5 or 6 metres into the pitch, but above that the quality of the ice deteriorated and I heard the unnerving sound of running water underneath the ice. Bits of the icefall fell apart as I climbed it, leaving mossy rock exposed underneath, but there was nothing for it but to keep climbing upwards, and the angle was bound to ease off soon...
Sure enough it got easier above and I ran the rope out to a good spike belay at the side of the gully. Matt gave himself a good talking to while seconding the steep bit ('Pull yourself together Diggle!') but made it nonetheless. It seems he did knock some more of the crumbling ice down though, leaving even more tricky conditions for Maria as the third person on the rope! Once she'd made it up the mossy remnants of the icefall, we then just had an easy snow slope to climb before we were on the plateau. It was then time to wander back down to the car and head south to York.
All in all, a great weekend and hopefully the first of many Scottish trips this winter! Glen Clova is also definitely worth a return visit - a well appointed bunkhouse next door to a good pub, with plenty of winter climbs in Corrie Fee and Winter Corrie, as well as nice hill walking all around.
