Brian Y and Dave M had discovered a couple of corresponding days free from duties and concocted a plan to climb near their native area at Peel Crag in Northumberland. The weather, however, was not exactly on the same wavelength so the climbing area was changed to Langdale where the forecast was good for at least two days.
Arriving in the early afternoon of Wednesday the 19th of July at Raven Crag beside the Old Dungeon Ghyll the pair planned their first climb. This was Brian’s first venture into multi-pitch climbing. Initially the pair were aiming for Middlefell Buttress but despite the rare appearance of good, sunny weather the whole crag was quiet so we changed to climb in the area of Evening Wall on Raven Crag Buttress.
Dave led initially on the first pitch of Oak Tree Wall but changed direction towards Evening Wall to avoid the trickiest moves and keep the grade at a sensible level for Brian. Several changes of direction and four pitches later we were at the top. A brilliant climb by Brian, picking up multi-pitch technique and on volcanic rock with such exposure was quite a change from the gritstone cragging he was familiar with.
Descent was via an abseil at the rear right of the crag. We had used a 60m single rope which was more than adequate for the drop from the fixed gear in place at the top of the gully.
One climb was sufficient for the afternoon and we headed off to sort our accommodation. Baysbrown Farm Campsite at nearby Chapel Stile was the campsite we had chosen. Dave had stayed here several years before and, although not a lot had changed, the facilities, he felt, were much better and brighter than he remembered. The price was good too. A quick brew, a shower and a short walk to Wainwright’s Pub for dinner. Perfect.
Thursday morning brought more sunshine and light winds. The plan was to climb at Gimmer Crag and finish by mid-afternoon when a brief spell of rain was forecast to arrive. The walk in from the Stickle Ghyll car park to Ash Tree Slabs on Gimmer Crag took almost 90 minutes. We climbed with our rucksacks which, again, is a change to Brian’s norm. Two pitches saw us at the top of the climb and we continued towards D Route on the higher West Face of the crag. A pair of climbers were just left of our next start point so in a slight change to the orthodox start to D Route, we moved right along Ash Tree Ledge and climbed an additional 12m pitch from beneath. This worked well although some of the climbing was delicate and Brian took a slight fall at one point, cutting fingertips and then bleeding all over Dave’s gear. Brian persevered, making a valiant effort to complete the long and exposed climb, receiving praise from the climbers on the neighbouring route.
After reaching to top of the climb we scrambled up near to the top of Gimmer Crag and had a very pleasant lunch on a sunny terrace with superb views across Langdale and Blea Tarn. We did not stop for long. The weather was about to change and we rejoined the main path down to Stickle Barn to arrive there just before a light shower of rain.
Another brew, another shower at the campsite but then a big night out calling at Wainwrights and then, for another change, the Britannia Inn in Elterwater.
Rain came in the night but the next morning was fair. Rock climbing was off the agenda so our final change of plan was to pack up before it rained again and head over to Ambleside for a full Cumbrian breakfast. A tremendous finale to a many-times modified couple of days away.
Thanks Brian!
Dave M
