The Rum Adventure: The Forbidden Island

April 30th – May 5th 2009

Rum adventurers:

Andrew Eccles, Amanda Peacock, Steve Green, Richard Harrison,

Keith Horner, Frank Adams, Pete, Lizzie Freeman

Route 1: Kinloch to Dibidil - 13km 1550m ascent and 7 hours
Route 2: Dibidil to Guirdil - 20km, 1500m ascent and approx 9h.

On the drive up from York to Crianlarich (via Stirling) Keith and Steve had the pleasure of enjoying my smooth relaxing driving all the way to Crianlarich. If they say otherwise its all lies I tell you… lies! Once we had reached Malaig the next morning and got ourselves sorted out it was a great feeling to be finally on the ferry enjoying the views of the isle of sky and the preceding islands to Rum - Eigg and Muck. However, such tantalising views only made the group that more eager to get to the forbidden island - the Isle of Rum. No longer forbidden but now a designated national nature reserve, the unique and curious history of the island intrigued us all and we were keen to start exploring.

The island accommodates a small population of people and there one will find only a small shop (but equipped with the essentials) and a community hall where the tourist can take refuge from the unpredictable weather and have a cuppa. If you walk the shores there is a colourful and welcoming craft shop that has a great view of the water front and on a clear day you can see the mainland and the extreme southern edge of the Isle of Skye.

As the ferry approached Rum the distinct re-entrant like entrance of Rum acts like a channel, guiding the ferry in and in the distance there is your first view of the mysterious Kinloch castle. Kinloch Castle was built in 1897 by George Bullough (aged 27) who inherited the Isle of Rum from his father John Bullough and Grandfather James Bullough (who founded the prosperous manufacturing company Howard & Bullough in 1856). It took 3 years and over 300 construction workers to complete the castle. The castle was built from Annan sandstone shipped from Dumfries-shire and the exotic gardens were formed from 250,000 tonnes of finest quality imported Ayrshire soil. The exterior of the house, although impressive, could be said to be relatively tame compared to its eccentric and extravagant interior.

From the stories told to me by Andrew (the organiser and instigator of the trip) I had enchanted impressions of the place due to the descriptions given about the unusual and pedantic objects resident at the castle and of the complex history of George Bullough and his wife Lady Bullough, which included numerous rumours (some controversial!). However, imaginations of the enchanted qualities of the castle become reality as you approach the castle, walk round its red brick walls and peer through the windows into its strange rooms. Luckily we arrived in time for the last tour which satisfied our curiosities. Personally my favourite feature on the Kinloch castle grounds was the wooded area that was covered in a bed of blue bells, vibrant green moss and packed with various trees. If you were to ever see fairies it would be there - it was beautiful.

The next morning we set off towards Coie Dubh and Bealach Bairc-mheall to begin our journey of the southern ridge of the island consisting of 7 tops; Barkevat, Hallival, Askival, Trollabhal, Ainshval, Sgurr nan Gillean, and Ruinsival (two of which we missed out – Barkeval and Ruinsval as they were out of our way to our ultimate destination – the Dibidil bothy). A clear well made path lead the way for most of the journey. As we reached the Bealach Bairc-mheall and made our way to the top of Hallival, apart from feeling the reality of carrying 3 days worth of food, cooking and sleeping gear, a great view of Glen Harris that creeps down to the western extremities of Rum was enjoyed. Terrain was steep and rocky at times which made the journey that more interesting and at times challenging (especially with the weight). When one reaches the Bealach an Oir – the saddle between Askival and Trollabhal there is a great view down Glen Dibidil which leads the eye out towards lovely views of the sea and the isle of Eigg. However one also catches a tempting view of the inviting Dibidil bothy. I don’t know about the rest of the gang but the view of the bothy, the easy undludlating decent down the glen, and thoughts of chilling out, admiring the views was very tempting whilst resting at a saddle preparing for our 3rd ascent - Trollabhal. However, as one reaches the top of Trollabhal and down to the saddle Bealach an Fhuarain a direct view can be had of Fiachanais and loch Fiachanais that over- looks the sea. As we reached the top of Sgurr nan Giliean, some of us somewhat bedraggled and tired from the former 4 accents and descents, there is a lovely view of Loch Papadil and loch Dubh an Sgor. In order to reach Dibidil bothy we contoured Sgurr nan Gillean which took us across un-pathed and undulating terrain and down an interesting steep channel like route. Thankfully just as the rain started to drizzle we shortly arrived to the bothy.

The journey for our second day exploring the island was somewhat easier with only 3 tops to ascend. The main agenda for the day was to explore the Mausoleum. The Mausoleum is a Greek style structure built for George’s father and now belongs to the Bullough Trust. To get there we walked up Gen Dibidil trhough Bealach an Fhuarain and down to loch Fiachanais we saw the day before. Red deer and feral scraggly coated goats were spotted along the way to the bridge that crosses a large stream that flows down Glen Harris. Once crossed it is a short walk to the mausoleum which grandly overlooks the Atlantic and thus completely exposed to the harsh sea air and winds. Whilst there it is also worth looking round the bothy that resides just metres away from the mausoleum as it contains some unexpected features. There at the old bothy we waited basking in the sunshine for Richard and Pete as they decided to complete the ridge we walked the day before taking in the last top – Ruinsival - whilst exploring the ruin of Papadil lodge set in a small wooded area by loch Papadil. When the group were back together we headed off to walk up to Ard Nev – a modest mound of a hill but with it a name that amused us all. From the top if you look east one has a great view of the numerous lochs and lochans situated in a basin like area to the south of Kinloch Glen. Additionally, you get a magnificent panoramic view of the ridge that was walked the previous day. The last ascent up to Orval was fairly steep but the view you get of Guirdil Bay makes all of it worth it. For me Guirdil bothy, and the views from it, made it one the most romantic locations on the island and I would have gladly stayed there for an additional night. Also, conveniently there is a small wooded area on the stepper western side of Glen Guirdil which meant we could enjoy a cosy fire late into the night that kept our wee toes cosy and most importantly warmed the whisky.

The walk back to Kinloch was fairly low level as we were weaving our way round the hills through glens and open pastures following what we thought would be an easy path underfoot. However, due to the weather of the last 2 days and the persistent drizzle whilst walking meant that much of the path, until the land rover track, was frustratingly boggy. Although the views weren’t as spectacular as those previously seen there are some nice waterfalls in the latter stages of the walk and the ease of the land rover track allowed for the group to talk and reflect back on our journey. When we arrived at Kinloch we all took refuge from the rain in the town hall and treated ourselves to tea and a wee piece, occasionally enjoying some live music from fellow tourists. There we waited until the ferry departure. I think we all felt we explored a significant portion of the mysterious island but too felt we would like to return and enjoy once again its remote but cosy bothies and wild terrain.

Lizzie