THE GENIE AND THE BEAST
SCOTLAND 21st-22nd JANUARY



 
Andrew, Howard and Captain K. went into Coire an t'Sneachda on the Saturday. Owing to the "time warp" effect of the extremely lean conditions, we could have been forgiven for thinking it was late May. The snow cover was at the TOP of the approach slope below the climbs -- rocks I had never seen before had now to be walked over.


We decided to have an initial look at Aladdin's Couloir to guage the state of the remaining white stuff, as it wasn't all that cold either. After an 08.30 departure from the car park, we were geared up by about 10.00. The usual snow platform at the base of the buttress was missing, and consolidated snow actually began  3 or 4 metres up the first pitch. This was steeper than normal and rather icy in the lean conditions, being pitched by a team of 3 on their second ever winter day. So we observed the courtesies for a bit, and then chopped our way past them moving together as one rope, alpine style. This continued all the way up the route non-stop, except for a brief photo-call. Towards the top, much of the gear had made its way down the rope to Howard, whilst at the pointed end Andrews last runner was improvised from a prussik loop followed finally by threading the rope behind a boulder to maintain progress.


On the plateau at 11.00 it was mild and almost windless, a pleasant Spring day (especially for January). So we had a bite, considered options, and made our way down the Goat track area to traverse in to Goat Track Gulley. Howard took the lead from a steep gearing-up spot, pushing up the awkward entry pitch to a good thread belay. As Kendrick and Andrew made themselves comfortable, H. accosted the steep icy corner (with its bubbling water below the ice!) and gently inched over the crux. Kenders led through the upper gulley to a suitable boulder, and after this, as the thin cover left boulders sticking out everywhere, it was a simple wander up the last 30 metres back to the plateau.

Peering into the top of Jacobs Ladder on the way home was a daunting sight, as the steep top bit was entirely bare rock. Not this weekend then, but we were back at the car park as the afternoon faded, happy enough at the two routes done, although dismayed by the lack of snow generally and the march down the piste tracks, totally uninterrupted by the usual stream of skiers. The Strathspey Hostel at Newtonmore was a very cosy spot with a roaring coal fire -- and a big gang doing a Burns Night supper. We adjourned to the Brieriach to catch Dave and Alex, who had done Ewen Buttress in Coire Lochain.
 
Sunday was a bit of a non-sequitur. Kendrick had bad guts (nothing to do with the food he found and ate on the plateau) Andrew had insomnia, and the weather was cloudy and warm. An ideal opportunity to do the Round of Upper Glentromie and learn a bit about the historic Minigaig Pass.
Never been there? Call yourself a conoisseur or what??

ANDY E.