THE FIVE SISTERS OF KINTAIL
As Lesley put it, the Five Sisters are a full-on West
Coast experience. No compromise start from a high pass. The Sisters
tower above sea-level Glen Shiel in a 3300 - foot sweep of steep rugged
ground; so switch your cardio-vascular system to "Full" and haul
yourself up a staircase-like path towards Sgurr na Spainteach
(Spaniard's Peak). Spare a thought for the Spanish, scrambling for
their lives up this very ground after the battle of 1719.
The high ridge runs mile after mile; you can peer down
into Glen Shiel as though from an aircraft, and watch the stringy road
and tiny cars below. The ridge is often narrow and entertaining,
occasionally rocky and gnarly, up and down over peaks and tops. A total
climb of 5200 feet today. The view is into Knoydart, Beinn Sgrithgeal,
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Sgurr na Sgigne, The Saddle, Skye; old friends all. Sometimes a gentle
mist playfully envelops the mountains, swirling in the warm air.
As the afternoon lengthened, the sun broke through high cloud
and we saw all the Cuillin Ridge in silhouette, Strathcarron and
Applecross bathed in sunshine, Loch Duich glowing blue more than half a
mile beneath our feet.
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Spainteach, Sgurr na Ciste Dubh, Sgurr na Carnach Sgurr Fuarhan and
then the slightly lower but shapely and dramatic Sgurr nan Saighead
with sheer rock faces and corners on its north side. After this, the
Sisters had a finale for us.
Our drop from the last col was 1200 feet of thigh-high heather
and grass at an improbable angle, mixed with rock slabs and overlaps.
The Indiana Jones theme continued across a bog to a suspension bridge
which officially "no longer exists".Just like the movies, it had
missing planks and hung at a drunken angle. Loosen rucksack and tread
gently!
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The legend is that these attractive and challenging Sisters were 5
brides who were turned into shapely summits to await their lovers who
never turned up. Judging from our day, the bridegrooms made a big
mistake.
Andrew Eccles with Lesley King
and Gethin Bridge, 10th September 2005
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