Pembroke - Filey '05

....and so it was that on a glorious day three intrepid YMC members ventured forth to Yorkshires premiere (and only) sea cliff climbing venue.

Filey Brigg is situated just to the north of Filey town and south of Scarborough. Most of Yorkshires cliffs are to loose and dangerous to climb but Filey Brigg characterises a change in the geology where the layers are thrust up creating a cliff edge exposed to the sea.

Access is best gained from the Filey north car park. The path is followed along the cliff edge out to sea on the spur. A quick scramble down steep eroded mud slopes will bring you to one of two ladders. The first is of 'dubious' quality and takes you to the smaller western climbing area.

The second ladder appears in much better condition and allows access to the remaining areas.

....and so it was that on a glorious day three intrepid YMC members ventured forth to Yorkshires premiere (and only) sea cliff climbing venue. Filey Brigg is situated just to the north of Filey town and south of Scarborough. Most of Yorkshires cliffs are to loose and dangerous to climb but Filey Brigg characterises a change in the geology where the layers are thrust up creating a cliff edge exposed to the sea. Access is best gained from the Filey north car park. The path is followed along the cliff edge out to sea on the spur. A quick scramble down steep eroded mud slopes will bring you to one of two ladders. The first is of 'dubious' quality and takes you to the smaller western climbing area. The second ladder appears in much better condition and allows access to the remaining areas.
	This brings you to a semi tidal ledge. I would recommend visiting the scarborough council website to find out tide times. The climbing is steep but juggy with many routes bolted. There is a bolted F4 and F5 but most of the easier to middle grades are led traditionally. The rock comprises of pure sandstone to pure limestone with every variation inbetween. Although the pure rock is of good quality the variable rock can be technically described as 'shite'. Indeed when Pete belatedly joined our group his first comments were of the order...Rich this is crap mate! Ah well were all here now!! For the rest of us myself, Seb and Andy cranked our the first route in the main wall area, easy and fairly solid!
I led the second route which was steeper but also fairly solid and after a bold start became fairly easy. I voluntered Seb to have a crack at a slightly harder line which he had no problems with and after some time we were sat in the sun! Although fairly sound the routes were somewhat....DIRTY! To finsih the day I decided to have a look at the only F4 'Bare knuckle fighting'! However although this route which is a traverse looked interseing I opted for a traditional crack! A severe with a VS variation finish. The route started well, the rock was of the 'crap' variety.....mudstone with random bits of 'shite'. The crack was quite nice apart from a section infested with some weird kind of insects! At the VS variation I pondered the move and tried it out only to discover my cam was behind a loose flake...arggghh....wimp out onto severe finish thank you very much!
	Pete followed up followed by Andy. Andy attempted the VS variation. Being taller he easily reached a big jug..................only for this to come off in his hand 'bugger.... knew that was too good to be true'! After another struggle Andy finished up the VS variation to declare the route was complete 'shite'....well fair coment. Seb finished the day by climbing the now jugless VS route. In fact we were all now totally knackered so time for the beach and some well earned fish and chips!
So Filey.....well interesting but the rock is crap. Would I go back....Yes....but not for a long time. Its definitely an experience and its nice to climb by the coast on a hot day. Would definitly recommend a hot day and calm seas! Who knows with global warming may be able to go to Stanage by the sea some day! So yes i would recommend at least one visit at least but i also recomemd: 1. A ***HELMET*** 2. Suncream (sunlight reflects off water) 3. Check the tide times Other items that may come in handy include....gardening gloves, bug spray, ice axes and crampons etc...
Rich aka 'Magic'