Buchalle - Glencoe


Big Winter Weekend 2008 21st - 25th Feb
Thursday As the weather in the highlands was totally appalling, Simon, Andrew, Brian H and Dave Carrier broke the northbound journey to have a short but worthwhile day on Broad Law in the Southern Uplands, starting from the Crook Inn on the A701.

It was still pretty wild and misty in high winds at 838 metres.



Friday's weather forecast was colder, less snow or rain, but still with the threat of violent winds. Andrew, Dave and Brian headed up into Coire nan Lochain, which we were happy to find still had plenty of snow cover and several easier gulley lines complete.

Upon arrival in the Coire, there was very high wind; and blizzard conditions began, cutting out all visibility. The team settled down behind a boulder to see if it would pass. Thankfully clear conditions returned, but still with winds of 80 mph possible at the top of the cliff. Andrew Dave & Brian headed to the right hand side for Pinnacle Gulley, as it's a straightforward route with the simplest shortest descent if enveloped in a blizzard.

We roped up to move together, shortening the rope with coils on Brian.

The Gulley weaves left behind the Pinnacle.

It's an interesting little route with no side wall at the Pinnacle base, which offers a great view back across the Coire.

We continued the whole route moving together, through running belays happily placed by Dave at the sharp end.



Finally emerging across a nice snow arete .

After a short snack at the top of the cliff, the wind made it clear it was time to leave. On the way down, we came across a good snow slope with a hard top edge, so it was "over the top" as we started to down-climb about 400 feet of hard snow back to the coire floor.

Towards the bottom, Dave and Brian decided to excavate some bucket seats

And then set up a practice fall and classic body belay arrest.





Finally with teatime nigh, we left the still-snowy coire after a happy day.

Saturday With the weather so difficult, even the red deer had come down to the pub, and seemed happy to pose for a photo.

The only outdoor event on Saturday was a very wet little crocodile which made its way over the Devil's Staircase from Langangarbh to Kinlochleven, to dry out at the climbing wall.

Sunday The AndyDaveBrian team was strengthened by Helen, and set off up the gorge of Glen Nevis and past the classic Steall waterfall......fantastic viewing conditions after so much rain.

We set our map for the distant Munro of Sgurr Coinneach Mor nearly 4 hours away.

Sometimes we had amazing clear views of the surrounding Mamores and Aonachs, but as heavy squalls and longer storms of hail and snow rolled past, sometimes we also had no view anywhere at all !! A bealach led to a narrow ridge, and the first [subsidiary] summit of Sgurr Coinneach Beag. Then there was a small and snow-filled bealach before the final pull to the Munro itself. A blizzard set up before the summit, and made for a boisterous descent back down.

The return route was to contour the lee face of Coinneach Beag, and in clearer weather this involved kicking steps (and a little demonstration step-cutting) across a series of icy snowfields.

Finally we could relax a bit between squalls to admire the hills and an excellent day full of variety.